VISIT TO INDIA - TELANGANA STATE - HYDERABAD CITY - GOLCONDA FORT - II

CHAPPIDI ABHIRATH REDDY,
C/O COL GKS REDDY,

Secunderabad - 500 015.

Golconda Fort

Introduction

          Golconda, also known as Golkonda or Golla konda ("shepherd's hill"), a ruined fort of Southern India and capital of medieval Golconda Sultanate (c.1518–1687), is situated 11 km west of Hyderabad. It is also a mandal of Hyderabad District. The region is universally famous for the mines that have produced the world's most famous and coveted gems, including the Hope Diamond, The Eye of the Idol (aka the Nassak Diamond).

History

          The Golconda fort was first built by Kakatiya as part of their western defenses. It was built in 945 CE-970 CE on the lines of the Kondapalli fort. The city and fortress are built on a granite hill that is 120 meters (400 ft) high and is surrounded by massivecrenelated ramparts. The fort was rebuilt and strengthened by Pratapa Rudra of Kakatiya dynasty. The fort was further strengthened by Musunuri Nayaks who overthrew the Tughlak army occupying Warangal. The fort was ceded by the Musunuri chief, Kapaya Nayaka to the Bahmanis as part of the treaty in 1364 AD. The fort became the capital of a major province in the Sultanate and after its collapse the capital of the Qutb Shahi kings. The fort finally fell into ruins after a siege and its fall to Mughal emperorAurangazeb in 1687 AD.

          After the collapse of the Bahmani Sultanate, Golkonda rose to prominence as the seat of the Qutb Shahi dynasty around 1507. Over a period of 62 years the mud fort was expanded by the first three Qutb Shahi kings into a massive fort of granite, extending around 5 km incircumference. It remained the capital of the Qutb Shahi dynasty until 1590 when the capital was shifted to Hyderabad. The Qutb Shahis expanded the fort, whose 7 km outer wall enclosed the city. The state became a focal point for Shia Islam in India, for instance, in the 17th century, Bahraini clerics, Sheikh Ja`far bin Kamal al-Din and Sheikh Salih Al-Karzakani both emigrated to Golkonda.

The Fort (Golconda)

          Golkonda consists of four distinct forts with a 10 km long outer wall with 87 semicircular bastions (some still mounted with cannons), eight gateways, and four drawbridges, with a number of royal apartments & halls, temples, mosques, magazines, stables, etc. inside. The lowest of these is the outermost enclosure into which we enter by the "Fateh Darwaza" (Victory gate, so called after Aurangzeb’s triumphant army marched in through this gate) studded with giant iron spikes (to prevent elephants from battering them down) near the south-eastern corner. At Fateh Darwaza can be experienced a fantastic acoustic effect, characteristic of the engineering marvels at Golkonda. A hand clap at a certain point below the dome at the entrance reverberates and can be heard clearly at the 'Bala Hisar' pavilion, the highest point almost a kilometre away. This worked as a warning note to the royals in case of an attack.

          The whole of the Golkonda Fort complex and its surrounding spreads across 11 km of total area, and discovering its every nook is an arduous task. A visit to the fort reveals the architectural beauty in many of the pavilions, gates, entrances and domes. Divided into four district forts, the architectural valour still gleams in each of the apartments, halls, temples, mosques, and even stables. The graceful gardens of the fort may have lost their fragrance, for which they were known 400 years ago, yet a walk in these former gardens should be in your schedule when exploring the past glories of Golkonda Fort.

          Bala Hissar Gate is the main entrance to the fort located on the eastern side. It has a pointed arch bordered by rows of scroll work. The spandrels have yalis and decorated roundels. The area above the door has peacocks with ornate tails flanking an ornamental arched niche. The granite block lintel below has sculpted yalis flanking a disc. The design of peacocks and lions is a blend of Hindu – Muslim architecture.

          Toli Masjid, situated at Karwan, about 2 km from the Golkonda fort, was built in 1671 by Mir Musa Khan Mahaldar, royal architect of Abdullah Qutb Shah. The facade consists of five arches, each with lotus medallions in the spandrels. The central arch is slightly wider and more ornate. The mosque inside is divided into two halls, a transverse outer hall and an inner hall entered through triple arches.

Much thought went into building this gate. A few feet in front of the gate is a large wall. This prevented elephants and soldiers (during enemy attacks) from having a proper ramp to run and break the gate.

          The fort of Golkonda is known for its magical acoustic system. The highest point of the fort is the "Bala Hissar", which is located a kilometer away. The palaces, factories, water supply system and the famous "Rahban" cannon, within the fort are some of the major attractions.

          It is believed that there is a secret underground tunnel that leads from the "Durbar Hall" and ends in one of the palaces at the foot of the hill. The fort also contains the tombs of the Qutub Shahi kings. These tombs have Islamic architecture and are located about 1 km north of the outer wall of Golkonda. They are encircled by beautiful gardens and numerous exquisitely carved stones. It is also believed that there was a secret tunnel to Charminar.

           The two individual pavilions on the outer side of Golkonda are also major attractions of the fort. It is built on a point which is quite rocky. The "Kala Mandir" is also located in the fort. It can be seen from the king's durbar (king's court) which was on top of the Golkonda Fort.

The other buildings found inside the fort are :

Habshi Kamans (Abyssian arches), Ashlah Khana, Taramati mosque, Ramadas Bandikhana, Camel stable, private chambers (kilwat), Mortuary bath, Nagina bagh, Ramasasa's kotha, Durbar hall, Ambar khana etc.

          This majestic structure has beautiful palaces and an ingenious water supply system. Sadly,  the unique architecture of the fort is now losing its charm. 

          The ventilation of the fort is absolutely fabulous having exotic designs. They were so intricately designed that cool breeze could reach the interiors of the fort, providing a respite from the heat of summer.

          The Huge gates of the fort are decorated with large pointed iron spikes. These spikes prevented Elephants from damaging the fort. The fort of Golkonda is encircled by an 11-km-long outer wall. This was built in order to fortify the fort.

A View of Bala Hissar Gate in the background, with huge defense 

wall in front to prevent the enemy from rushing it

A view of Bala Hissar Gate,  Entrance through the Outer Fort Wall

The Central Fort Wall

          Golconda Fort had three tiers of Defence, the Outer Fort Wall, the Central Fort Wall and the Inner Fort Wall, which the enemy had to breach, to reach the power centres on top of the hill

The entrance to the Central Fort Wall

The Northern shoulder of the Central Fort wall Entry Gate, natural 

Rocks have been used to strengthen the Fortifications 

Portions of the central Fort Wall had been damaged during 

the siege of 1687 and the vagaries of time 

Inner Fort Wall

          The Inner Fort Wall, the last line of Defense is generally intact, except for some minor damage caused by the vagaries of time. 

A view of the Inner Fort Wall, with the Darbar Hall in the Background

A view of the Inner Fort Wall, from just behind the Central Fort Wall Entrance

A closer view of Inner Fort Wall, where natural Rocks have 

been used to strengthen the Fortifications

Another close view of Inner Fort Wall

A long shot of Inner Fort Wall, which is generally intact

A panoramic view of the Fort Ruins below and the City beyond 

through a gap in the Central Fort Wall

Another view of the Fort Ruins and the City beyond

A view of the steps leading to the Entrance Gate of Inner Fort Wall

Baradari (Durbar Hall)

          

          This structure is located on the top of the outcrop and the highest point on the hillock and it is a double storied building. The two stories known as Diwani – I – Khas and Diwani – I – Am are the Audience Halls.

Durbar Hall from the Courtyard

A closer view of the Durbar Hall

Kali Mandir

          There is a Kali Mandir located just across the courtyard, from the main Seat of Power (Durbar Hall) inside the Inner Fort Wall, which speaks volumes about the religious tolerance of the Qutub Shahi Rulers.

Kali Mandir across the courtyard from the Durbar Hall

Another view of the Kali Mandir from outside the courtyard

Ibrahim Mosque

          This structure is a good example of Qutub Shahi Architecture. This simple but beautiful Mosque is marked by three Arches, with the Central Arch being larger than the flanking Arches on either side. At the Base, it has nine small Arches. The external stucco decorations represent typical Qutub Shahi art style.

A view of Ibrahim Mosque from the inner Fort Wall

A long shot of Ibrahim Mosque from the Foot path 

leading down to Qutub Shahi Tombs

A fortification on the Inner Fort Wall, next to the Ibrahim 

Mosque, as seen from the Ramadas Prison

A closeup of the same Fortification

Ramadas Prison

        It is a solidly built Rectangular building with only one entrance from the North. Originally planned to be used as a store house, this building was converted into a prison during the reign of Abul Hasan Qutub Shah (Tanah Shah), AD 1672 to 1689.

Ramadas Prison with a single entrance from the North

The stairs inside the prison leading to the raised platform on the western side 

The low ground on the Eastern half of the Prison building

A Fortification on the central Fort wall, below the Ramadas Prison, 

with the Qutub Shahi Tombs in the background

A view of the Qutub Shahi Tombs in the far distance, 

with the fortification on the Right

A view of the outer Fort wall and the lawns between Aslah Khana 

and Rani Mahal complex, taken on the way down

 A view of the southern portion of the Fort and the city beyond from 

the path leading down from the Central Fort Wall

Another view of the Southern Section of the Fort and the City beyond

A view of the Western Flank of the Rani Mahal Complex

An imposing view of the Central Fort Wall and the Durbar Hall beyond, 

from the court yard outside the Western Flank of Rani Mahal Complex

The Layout Map of the Fort displayed at the Bala Hissar Gate 

(Main Entry Gate from the East)

A Brief History of the Fort Displayed at the Bala Hissar Gate

Some Artifacts excavated from the Fort displayed at the Bala Hissar Gate 

Note:- The information about the places visited has been Extracted from Wikipedia The Free Encyclopedia.

VISIT TO EUROPE - UK - SCOTLAND - STIRLING CASTLE AND ROSSLYN CHAPEL

CHAPPIDI ABHIRATH REDDY,
C/O COL GKS REDDY,

Secunderabad - 500 015.



Visit Stirling City.


          Started from Oban early morning on 14 Oct 2013 and reached Stirling City by about 1000 h and went straight to the castle.

          Stirling (Scots: Stirlin; Scottish Gaelic: Sruighlea [ˈs̪t̪ruʝlə]) is the largest city in Central Scotland. The city is clustered around a large fortress and medieval old-town. Stirling is the administrative centre for the Stirling council area. The city is located at the mouth of the River Forth. Historically it was strategically important as the "Gateway to the Highlands", with its position near the Highland Boundary Fault between the Scottish Lowlands and Highlands, indeed, it has been described as the brooch which clasps the Highlands and the Lowlands together. Its historical position as the nearest crossing of the Forth to the river mouth meant that many of its visitors were in fact invaders. The beast of Stirling is the wolf, which it shares with Rome. According to legend, when Stirling was under attack from Viking invaders, a wolf howled, alerting the townspeople in time to save the town. It is also claimed that the last wolf in Scotland was killed in Stirling.

          Once the capital of Scotland, Stirling contains the Great Hall (restored 1999) and the Renaissance Palace (restoration completed 2011) within the Castle that rivalled any building in Europe at the time. Stirling also has its medieval parish church, The Church of the Holy Rude, where King James VI was crowned King of Scots on 29 July 1567. The Holy Rude still functions as a living church with a service every Sunday.

Visit Stirling Castle.

          Stirling Castle, located in Stirling, is one of the largest and most important castles, both historically and architecturally, in Scotland. The castle sits atop Castle Hill, an intrusive crag, which forms part of the Stirling Sill geological formation. It is surrounded on three sides by steep cliffs, giving it a strong defensive position. Its strategic location, guarding what was, until the 1890s, the farthest downstream crossing of the River Forth, has made it an important fortification from the earliest times. Most of the principal buildings of the castle date from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. A few structures of the fourteenth century remain, while the outer defences fronting the town date from the early eighteenth century. Several Scottish Kings and Queens have been crowned at Stirling, including Mary, Queen of Scots, in 1542. There have been at least eight sieges of Stirling Castle, including several during the Wars of Scottish Independence, with the last being in 1746, when Bonnie Prince Charlie unsuccessfully tried to take the castle. Stirling Castle is a Scheduled Ancient Monument, and is now a tourist attraction managed by Historic Scotland. 

A view of Stirling Castle and its Main Entrance from outside

The Draw Bridge across the Moat

The inner Court Yard, in front of the Gate through the Second Fort Wall

A closer view of the Entry Gate to Second (Inner) Fort wall

The Grand Entry or the Third Entry Gate into the Castle Compound

A Closer view of the Grand Entry Gate

The Palace Wall with Sculptures from the Inner Courtyard of the castle

The Corridor leading to the Gun Emplacements on the other side of the Palace

Gun Emplacements on the Ramparts of the Fort Wall

A view of the Cannon on the Fort Wall Guarding an Approach

The Castle Wall With the Cannons Deployed (Cannons to the Left)

Stirling Palace

          Stirling Palace was built for King James V and his second queen, Mary of Guise. It is one of the most remarkable and complete Renaissance buildings in Britain.

(a) The Royal Wedding. In 1538, James was preparing to marry his second French wife. To mark the arrival of his bride, James commissioned a new Palace in Stirling Castle. It was intended to be as fine as any princely residence she would have known in the richer kingdom of France.

(b) Designed for Impact. 

          The Palace was designed to display James V’s wealth, learning and sophistication, as well as asserting his right to rule.

          Its elaborate decorative scheme, inside and out, was inspired by the European Renaissance. It draws on ideas from the Classical world, employing elaborate symbols and motifs to broadcast messages of power and prosperity, wisdom and justice. 

          Both the interiors and the exteriors would have been painted in bright colours, with plentiful gilding, overwhelming the visitor’s eye with richness and flamboyance.

(c) How the Rooms are Arranged.

          The Palace comprises Royal Lodgings for the king and queen. Each apartment has three spacious rooms – in ascending order of privacy: an Outer Hall‚ an Inner Hall and a Bedchamber. Access to these rooms was restricted according to the importance of the visitor and the royal privilege extended to them.

          Both the king’s and queen’s suites are on the same floor, arranged around a courtyard known as the Lion’s Den.

(d) How the Rooms were Used.

          These rooms were used for a variety of purposes, including taking meals, greeting important visitors, dancing and entertainments, royal audiences and meetings about affairs of state.

          But the bed chambers were rarely used for sleeping. The king and queen slept in small private chambers known as closets.

(e) Reviving the Palace.

          The Royal Lodgings have now been returned to something approaching their former glory. A major programme of research and re-presentation, lasting 10 years and costing £12 million, was completed in summer 2011. 

          Visitors can now glimpse life in one of the great royal residences of Scotland’s kings and queens. The decorative scheme is amazingly elaborate and colourful. It includes hand-woven tapestries, superb, hand-made furniture and painted replicas of the famous Stirling Heads – carved portraits in oak that once adorned the ceiling of James V’s magnificent Palace.

The Lion - The Scottish Symbol inside the Stirling Palace

The Lion's Den, where a Live Lion (The Scottish Symbol) 

was Kept by the King James V, it is almost in the center of the Palace

Another view of the Lion's Den

Queens Outer Hall

The Queen's Bed Chamber

The King's Outer Hall

The King's Bed Chamber

King James IV's Old Residence, before new Palace Was built by James V

Another view of King James IV's Old Residence, now being used as a Museum

The outer walls of the New Palace with Sculptures

A close view of the Outer Fort Wall and the Fort

Rosslyn Chapel.

After Visiting the Castle, we had Lunch at a Restaurant in Stirling and drove straight to Rosslyn Chapel, as we had to catch a Flight back to London in the evening. 

          Rosslyn Chapel, formally known as the Collegiate Chapel of St Matthew, was founded on a small hill above Roslin Glen as aCatholic collegiate church (with between four and six ordained canons and two boy choristers) in the mid-15th century. Rosslyn Chapel and the nearby Roslin Castle are located at the village of Roslin, Midlothian, Scotland.

          The chapel was founded by William Sinclair, 1st Earl of Caithness of the Scoto-Norman Sinclair family. Rosslyn Chapel is the third Sinclair place of worship at Roslin, the first being in Roslin Castle and the second (whose crumbling buttresses can still be seen today) in what is now Roslin Cemetery.

          The purpose of the college was to celebrate the Divine Office throughout the day and night and also to celebrate Holy Mass for all the faithful departed, including the deceased members of the Sinclair family. During this period the rich heritage of plainsong (a single melodic line) or polyphony (vocal harmony) would be used to enrich the singing of the liturgy. An endowment was made that would pay for the upkeep of the priests and choristers in perpetuity and they also had parochial responsibilities.

          After the Scottish Reformation (1560) Roman Catholic worship in the chapel was brought to an end, although the Sinclair family continued to be Roman Catholics until the early 18th century. From that time the chapel was closed to public worship until 1861 when it was opened again as a place of worship according to the rites of the Scottish Episcopal Church.

          Since the late 1980s, the chapel has also featured in speculative theories concerning a connection of Freemasonry, the Knights Templar, and the Holy Grail.

A side view of the Rosslyn Chapel from the Courtyard

Another side view of the Chapel

A front view of Rosslyn Chapel from the courtyard

Memorial in the Chapel Courtyard in honour of Francis Robert 

St Clair and Blanche, the Earl and Countess of Rosslyn

A Cat in the Chapel which seems to be keeping a watch on all the Visitors

Note:- The information about the places visited has been Extracted from Wikipedia The Free Encyclopedia.